Crochet top from Stenli Mohito
date: 24/04/2025
Materials:
3 mm hook
Stitch markers, scissors and darning needle
4 skeins of Stenli Mohito
Notes: Ch 1 at the beginning of the row doesn’t count as a stitch.
Ch 2 at the beginning of the row doesn’t count as a stitch.
Ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a stitch.
Abbreviations (US terms):
ch(s) - chain(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sk - skip
** - repeat what’s in between these symbols as many times as instructed
fpdc - front post double crochet
ac decrease - 2 single crochets worked together
sl.st - slip stitch
Cups (make 2)
R1: ch 36, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 32 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in last st, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, continue working on the other side of the chain, dc in each st, turn
R2: ch 1, sc in each st till you reach the st marker, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till there's one st before the st marker, dc in next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in ch-1-sp, dc in next 2 sts, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 1, sc in each st till you reach the st marker, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R5: ch 2, *fpdc around the post from two rows ago, sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below*, repeat till there's one st before the st marker, dc in next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in ch-1-sp, dc in next st, *dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows ago, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
Repeat R2-5 two more times, then repeat R2-3 once more (a total of 15 rows).
Don't cut yarn off, you'll be continuing with the back side of the first (right cup) directly.
R1: ch 1, sc in same and in next 31 sts, turn
R2: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 1, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 2, fpdc around the first post from two rows below,* sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around next post frow two rows below*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
Repeat R1-4 four more times, then repeat R1-2 one more time (a total of 18 rows)
R19: ch 1, sc in each st till the you reach the last 2 sts, sc decrease, turn
R20: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R21: repeat R19
R22: ch 2, dc in same and in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts*, repeat till the end of the row, cut yarn off and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same steps for the second cup, cut yarn off BEFORE continuing with the back side of the top.
Lay both cups with the wrong side facing up and sew the cups together using the mattress stitch. I sew 22 stitches on both cups together, for less or more cleavage sew respectively more or less stitches together.
Add shoulder straps before you continue with the back side of the second cup.
Attach yarn to the ch-1-sp of either of the cups.
R1: (ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, turn
R2: ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in next st, dc in 3rd ch, turn
Repeat R2 40 more times. Cut yarn off and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same steps for the other shoulder strap.
Lay your top with the wrong side facing up and proceed to making the back side of the second cup.
Count 32 sts from the bottom towards the ch-1-sp and attach yarn to the 32nd st.
R1: ch 1, sc in each st, turn
R2: ch 2, *fpdc around the post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 1, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
Repeat R1-4 four more times, then repeat R1-2 one more time (a total of 18 rows)
R19: ch 1, sc decrease , sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R20: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R21: repeat R19
R22: ch 2, dc in same and in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts*, repeat till the end of the row, don't cut yarn off, ch 1 and turn your work 90 degrees to add the edging (continue working on the right side of the top).
Edging:
R1: sc in each dc (a sc counts as 1 st, a dc/fpdc counts as one st as well) till you reach the cup, [*3 sc, sc decrease*, repeat till you reach the shoulder strap, continue placing one sc per st alongside the shoulder strap]. When you reach the other side of the cup, repeat from * to * till you reach one st before the seam of the cups. Sc decrease over the last st of this cup and the first of the other cup.
Repeat what's in the [brackets] one more time. When you reach the other side of the cup, repeat from * to * till you reach the underarm side of the top. Sc in each st along the side, when you reach the last st, turn your work 90 degrees, ch 1 and sc in the same st, sc in each st along the corset eyelet side. When you reach the last st, ch 1 and sc in the same st and turn your work 90 degrees. Now you'll be working on the bottom of the top. Sc in each st alongside the bottom. Ch 1 and sc in the same (last st), sc in each st along the corset eyelet side, sl.st into first sc.
R2: ch 1, sc in each st, sl st into first sc.
Finish off. Weave in the ends.
Corset strap:
Make a chain that measures about 2 m and if you'd prefer a thicker strap, place a hdc in each ch. Finish off and weave in the ends.
3 mm hook
Stitch markers, scissors and darning needle
4 skeins of Stenli Mohito
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Ch 2 at the beginning of the row doesn’t count as a stitch.
Ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a stitch.
Abbreviations (US terms):
ch(s) - chain(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sk - skip
** - repeat what’s in between these symbols as many times as instructed
fpdc - front post double crochet
ac decrease - 2 single crochets worked together
sl.st - slip stitch
Cups (make 2)
R1: ch 36, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 32 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in last st, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, continue working on the other side of the chain, dc in each st, turn
R2: ch 1, sc in each st till you reach the st marker, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till there's one st before the st marker, dc in next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in ch-1-sp, dc in next 2 sts, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 1, sc in each st till you reach the st marker, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in the ch-1-sp, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R5: ch 2, *fpdc around the post from two rows ago, sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below*, repeat till there's one st before the st marker, dc in next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, place a st marker in ch-1-sp, dc in next st, *dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows ago, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
Repeat R2-5 two more times, then repeat R2-3 once more (a total of 15 rows).
Don't cut yarn off, you'll be continuing with the back side of the first (right cup) directly.
R1: ch 1, sc in same and in next 31 sts, turn
R2: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 1, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 2, fpdc around the first post from two rows below,* sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around next post frow two rows below*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
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Repeat R1-4 four more times, then repeat R1-2 one more time (a total of 18 rows)
R19: ch 1, sc in each st till the you reach the last 2 sts, sc decrease, turn
R20: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R21: repeat R19
R22: ch 2, dc in same and in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts*, repeat till the end of the row, cut yarn off and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same steps for the second cup, cut yarn off BEFORE continuing with the back side of the top.
Lay both cups with the wrong side facing up and sew the cups together using the mattress stitch. I sew 22 stitches on both cups together, for less or more cleavage sew respectively more or less stitches together.
Add shoulder straps before you continue with the back side of the second cup.
Attach yarn to the ch-1-sp of either of the cups.
R1: (ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-1-sp, turn
R2: ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in next st, dc in 3rd ch, turn
Repeat R2 40 more times. Cut yarn off and weave in the ends.
Repeat the same steps for the other shoulder strap.
Lay your top with the wrong side facing up and proceed to making the back side of the second cup.
Count 32 sts from the bottom towards the ch-1-sp and attach yarn to the 32nd st.
R1: ch 1, sc in each st, turn
R2: ch 2, *fpdc around the post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st, sk 1 post from two rows below*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R3: ch 1, sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R4: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
Repeat R1-4 four more times, then repeat R1-2 one more time (a total of 18 rows)
R19: ch 1, sc decrease , sc in each st till the end of the row, turn
R20: ch 2, dc in same st, *sk 1 post from two rows below, fpdc around the next post from two rows below, sk 1, dc in next st*, repeat till the end of the row, turn
R21: repeat R19
R22: ch 2, dc in same and in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts*, repeat till the end of the row, don't cut yarn off, ch 1 and turn your work 90 degrees to add the edging (continue working on the right side of the top).
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Edging:
R1: sc in each dc (a sc counts as 1 st, a dc/fpdc counts as one st as well) till you reach the cup, [*3 sc, sc decrease*, repeat till you reach the shoulder strap, continue placing one sc per st alongside the shoulder strap]. When you reach the other side of the cup, repeat from * to * till you reach one st before the seam of the cups. Sc decrease over the last st of this cup and the first of the other cup.
Repeat what's in the [brackets] one more time. When you reach the other side of the cup, repeat from * to * till you reach the underarm side of the top. Sc in each st along the side, when you reach the last st, turn your work 90 degrees, ch 1 and sc in the same st, sc in each st along the corset eyelet side. When you reach the last st, ch 1 and sc in the same st and turn your work 90 degrees. Now you'll be working on the bottom of the top. Sc in each st alongside the bottom. Ch 1 and sc in the same (last st), sc in each st along the corset eyelet side, sl.st into first sc.
R2: ch 1, sc in each st, sl st into first sc.
Finish off. Weave in the ends.
Corset strap:
Make a chain that measures about 2 m and if you'd prefer a thicker strap, place a hdc in each ch. Finish off and weave in the ends.
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