Cardigan Chocolate Rosebuds

CHOCOLATE ROSEBUDS CARDIGAN

Elena Dimchevska for Stenli Yarns

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Chocolate Rosebud Cardigan is inspired by the rustic look of the beautiful Tiramisu cake yarn by Stenli. The organic elements found in nature, flowering vibe and whimsical feel are the ones that the design seeks for and rely upon for providing the laid-back cozy sense of life when wearing this knitted piece.

The rosebud lace elements on the yoke and sleeves are a reminiscent to the magical Shetland lace, while the leaves at the lower part of the body are gentle nod to the fashionable Japanese knitting style.

The construction of the cardigan is top down, with 8-10 cm /3.5-4” intended ease. The neck elevation, worked in short rows, provides for better fit. Further the round yoke features some simple lace elements, leaving the visual out-turn mainly to the “sprinkled” yarn and its muline effect. After dividing the sleeves, the body is worked straight with a slightly more elaborated lace pattern at the lower part. The sleeves are worked continuously down to the cuff, with a little lace embellishment right before the rib.

Instructions are written only.

 

The pattern is suitable for adventurous/advanced beginners and/or intermediate knitters.

 

Specific techniques required:

Short rows (German): (55) German Short Rows Tutorial | Purl Soho - YouTube

 

SIZES:

Size	To fit bust (cm)	To fit bust (in)
S	80/85	32/34
M	90/95	36/38
L	100/105	40/42
XL	110/115	44/46
XXL	120/125	48/50
XXXL	130/135	52/54

 

GAUGE:

Gauge (in stockinette stitch): 20 stitches x 26 rows for 10 cm x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in

MATERIALS:

Yarn:

Stenli Yarns Tiramisu 2 x 450 gr (for each size) (color 813332)

 

Needles:

Circular needles size 4.0 mm

Circular needle 4.5 mm or size necessary to achieve the gauge

 

 

Other:

6 buttons, stitch markers, stitch holders/spare threads, tapestry needle, scissors

 

ABBREVIATIONS:

RS – right side	ssk – With yarn to the back, slip the first st knitwise, slip the second stitch purlwise and return both to the left needle, k2tog through the back loop.
WS – wrong side
st – stitch(es)
St st – stockinette stitch	k2tog tbl – knit 2 st together through the backloops
k – knit on the RS, purl on the WS	k3tog tbl – knit 3 st together through the backloops
p – purl on the RS, knit on the WS	KLL – insert left needle into the left loop of the st two rows below the last st on your right needle starting from the back; lift it on the left needle and knit it through the back loop.
YO – yarn over
Sl – slip the stitch purlwise
k2tog – knit 2 st together

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

Stockinette stitch (St st):

When working flat:

• Knit on the RS, purl on the WS;

When working in the round:

• knit each row.

 

Garter stitch (when working flat):

• 1 ridge: RS – knit, WS - knit

 

Rib 1x1:

When working flat:

• RS: *k1, p1*, repeat as per the instructions;

• WS: *p1, k1*, repeat as per the instructions.

When working in the round:

• *k1, p1*, repeat until end of the round.

 

Button Band (over 5 st) - both RS and WS:

• Beginning of the row: sl1 with yarn to the back, k4;

• End of the row: k4, p1

 

Buttonholes

Work Buttonholes on the right Button Band (seen as worn) as follows: work from the RS, when 5 st are left before end of the row (the Button Band) k1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1. On the next WS row knit the YO to create a hole.

The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 2 cm / 0.8”. Then work 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6) more buttonholes with approx. 9 (9, 8, 8, 8.5, 9) cm / 3.5 (3.5, 3.2, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6)” between each one.

 

Increase evenly:

• To increase evenly divide the total number of stitches to the total number of increases for the row (not including the stitches for the Button Bands) and work KLL after working the number of stitches you receive after dividing. For example if you have a total of 210 st and should increase 10 st evenly, you make a KLL each time after working 21 st.

• Round down if the result has a remainder of less than 0.5.

• In case of remainder of more than 0.5 the number of stitches in each segment alternate – first segment consists of a number of stitches equal to the higher number and the next segment consists of a number of stitches equal to the lower number of the result after the division.

 

Decrease evenly:

• To decrease evenly divide the number of stitches on the needles (not including the stitches for the Button Bands) to the total number of decreases to be made.

• Round down if the result has a remainder of less than 0.5. The result represents segments of stitches where last two stitches of each segment should be knitted together in order to decrease.

• In case of remainder of more than 0.5 the number of stitches in each segment alternate – first segment consists of a number of stitches equal to the higher number and the next segment consists of a number of stitches equal to the lower number of the result after the division. To decrease k2tog last two stitches of each segment.

 

ROSEBUD PATTERN A (knitted flat) – 20 st / 24 rows:

Row 1 (RS): k9, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k6. (20 sts)

Row 2 and all WS rows up to row 24: Purl.

Row 3: k8, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k5.

Row 5: k9, yo, k2tog tbl, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k6.

Row 7: k10, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k7.

Row 9: k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.

Row 11: (k3, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk) × 2.

Row 13: k4, yo, k2tog tbl, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k5, yo, k2tog tbl, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k1.

Row 15: K5, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k7, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k2.

Row 17: Repeat row 1.

Row 19: Repeat row 3.

Row 21: Repeat row 5.

Row 23: Repeat row 7.

 

ROSEBUD PATTERN B (knitted in the round) – 9 st / 9 rounds:

Round 1: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2. (9 sts)

Round 2 and all even numbered rounds up to round 8: knit.

Round 3: k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1.

Round 5: k2, yo, k2tog tbl, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k2.

Round 7: k3, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k3.

 

ROSE LEAVES PATTERN (knitted flat) – 20 st / 16 rows:

Row 1 (RS): yo, ssk, k15, k2tog, yo, p1. (20 sts)

Row 2 (WS): k1, p19.

Row 3: k1, yo, ssk, k1, (yo, ssk) × 6, k2tog, yo, k1, p1.

Row 4: k1, p3, k13, p3.

Row 5: k2, yo, ssk, k11, k2tog, yo, k2, p1.

Row 6: k1, p4, k11, p4.

Row 7: k3, yo, ssk, p9, k2tog, yo, k3, p1.

Row 8: k1, p5, k9, p5.

Row 9: yo, k4, ssk, p7, k2tog, k4, yo, p1.

Row 10: k1, p6, k7, p6.

Row 11: k1, yo, k4, ssk, p5, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, p1.

Row 12: k1, p7, k5, p7.

Row 13: k2, yo, k4, ssk, p3, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p1.

Row 14: k1, p8, k3, p8.

Row 15: k3, yo, k4, ssk, p1, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p1.

Row 16: (k1, p9) × 2.

 

 

NECKBAND

Cast on 101 (105, 111, 117, 125, 133) stitches with needles size 4.5 mm using your favoruite cast on method. On the next row (WS) change needles to size 4 mm and start working Rib 1x1 with Button Bands on both sides (over the first 5 and last 5 stitches). Continue like this until rib measures 2 cm / 0.8” in height and make the first Buttonhole on the right Button Band (seen as worn). Continue with Rib 1x1 for 1 cm / 0.4” more (for a total of 3 cm / 1.2” Rib 1x1).

On the next RS row change to needles size 4.5 mm and work in St st with Button Bands on both sides, increasing evenly 75 (85, 95, 101, 103, 123) st, (do not increase on the Button Bands). There are 176 (190, 206, 218, 228, 256) st on the needle. Work next WS row in St st with Button Bands on both sides.

 

NECK ELEVATION

Neck elevation is worked in short row (use your preferred technique) in St st.

On the next RS work as established (Button Band over 5 st, continue in St st) until there 20 st left before end of the row. Turn the piece and work the WS until there are 20 st before end of the row. Continue like this working 14 (16, 15, 16, 15, 16) st less for every next set of 2 rows for a total of 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) rows (count every row whether it is a RS or a WS row, including the first two). Work the last WS until the end (not forgetting the Button Band over the last 5 st).

 

YOKE

Continue in St st with Button Bands on both sides (do not forget the Buttonholes) until piece measures 6.5 cm / 2.6” from the cast on edge (measured mid front).

Now work 1 ridge of Garter st, then knit the next RS row (with Button Bands on both sides) while increasing 57 (63, 67, 75, 85, 97) st evenly (do not increase on the Button Bands). Purl the next WS row (with Button Bands on both sides).

On the next RS row start working the ROSEBUD PATTERN A as follows: Button Band (over 5 st), Rosebud Pattern A x 11 (12, 14, 15, 17) times, k3, Button Band. Continue as established.

When the pattern is completed 1 time vertically, knit the next RS row (with Button bands on both sides) while increasing 52 (60, 68, 84, 94, 80) st evenly (do not increase on the Button Bands). There are 285 (313, 341, 377, 407, 433) st on the needle. Purl the next WS row (with Button Bands on both sides) and then work 1 ridge of Garter st.

Continue in St st with Button Bands on both sides (do not forget Buttonholes) until piece measures 20 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29) cm / 7.9 (8.3, 9, 9.8, 10.6, 11.4)” from the cast on edge (measured mid-front).

On the next RS row divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: Button Band (over 5 st), k40 (44, 48, 55, 61, 65) (= left front piece), place next 56 (63, 68, 72, 76, 80) st on a stitch holder/spare thread (=sleeve) and cast on 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) new stitches (=underarm), k83 (89, 99, 113, 123, 133) (=back), place next 56 (63, 68, 72, 76, 80) st on a stitch holder/spare thread (= sleeve) and cast on 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) new stitches (=underarm), k40 (44, 48, 55, 61, 65) (= right front piece), Button Band (over 5 st).

 

 

 

BODY

There are 189 (203, 225, 253, 279, 297) st on th needle. Start measuring piece from here. Continue working the body in St st and Button Bands on both sides (remember the Buttonholes) until piece measures 18 cm / 7.1”. On the next RS row increase 4 (10, 8, 0, 14, 16) st evenly (do not increase on the Button Band). There are 193 (213, 233, 253, 293, 313) st on the needle. Purl all stitches on the WS (working Button Bands on both sides) and start working the Rose Leaves Pattern on the next RS rows as follows: Button Band (over 5 st), k1, p1, ROSE LEAVES PATTERN x 9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15) times, k1, Button Band (over 5 st). Continue as established until Rose Leaves Pattern has been completed 1 time vertically. On the next RS row continue as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Button Band, k1, p1, k4, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *yo, ssk, k2, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1* x 7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) times, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k3, yo, k4, p1, k1, Button Band.

Row 2 (WS): Button Band, P1, *k1, p9* × 2, *p10, k1, p9* x 8 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14) times, k1, p1, Button Band.

Row 3: Button Band, k1, p1, k5, yo, k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, *k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2* x 7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) times, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, yo, k5, p1, k1 Button Band.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Button Band, k1, p1, k6, yo, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, yo, *k3tog tbl, yo, k4, yo, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, yo* x 7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) times, k3tog tbl, yo, k4, yo, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, yo, k6, p1, k1, Button Band.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Button Band, k1, p1, k7, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k6, yo, k3tog tbl, *yo, k6, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k6, yo, k3tog tbl* x 7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) times, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k7, p1, k1, Button Band.

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

 

On the next RS row change to needle size 4 mm and work Rib 1x1 with Button Bands on both sides for 4 cm / 1.6”. Piece measures approx. 51 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60) cm / 20.1 (20.5, 21.3, 22, 22.8, 23.6)” (measured mid-front from the cast on edge). Bind off loosely (preferably using one size bigger needle) in pattern with knit over knit and purl over pearl.

 

SLEEVES

Place the 56 (63, 68, 72, 76, 80) stitches from one of the stitch holders/spare threads back to needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) new stitches from the new underarm stitches cast on the body piece. Place a marker in the middle of those stitches. There are 64 (71, 78, 82, 88, 92) stitches on the needle. Work in St st for 4 cm / 1.6”. Now decrease 2 st as follows: knit until 3 st before the marker, k2tog, knit 2 (the marker is between those 2 stitches), ssk. Continue in St st and decrease like this every 3 (3, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.8) cm / 1.2 (1.2, 1, 0.8, 0.8, 0.7)” a total of 9 (12, 14, 16, 17, 17) times. Continue in St st until sleeve measures 38 (37, 37, 36, 36, 35) cm / 14.6 (14.6, 14.2, 13.8, 13.4, 13)” measured mid undersleeve. On the next round decrease 1 (2, 0, 0, 0, 4) st evenly. There are 45 (45, 50, 50, 54, 54) st on the needle. Now work the ROSEBUD PATTERN B x 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) times and for sizes S and XL only k1 after each pattern repeat. When the pattern is completed 1 time vertically change to needle size 4 mm and work Rib 1x1 for 3 cm / 1.2”. Bind off loosely (preferably using one size bigger needle) in pattern with knit over knit and purl over pearl.

 

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

 

FINISHING

Weave in all the end.

Wet block appropriately (this will smoothen the surface and add a few cm to the length of the piece).